Development of an International Expert Consensus Framework for Criteria-Based Rehabilitation and Return to Performance Following Climbing injury | PSCJ | UKSCA

PSCJ

UKSCA's peer-reviewed Professional Strength and Conditioning Journal

Development of an International Expert Consensus Framework for Criteria-Based Rehabilitation and Return to Performance Following Climbing injury

16/10/2026

Lead author:
Uzo Ehiogu, St Marys University, Royal Orthopaedic Hospital Birmingham
Co-authors:
Gareth Jones, Volker Schoffl, Jo Neame, Gareth Jones, Hayley Jennings, Matthew Buckthorp, Stephen Patterson, The Climbing Rehabilitation Delta Group
Royal Orthopaedic Hospital Birmingham, University of Birmingham, St Marys University, Leeds Becket University, Isokinetic UK, Sportmedizin FRG

ABSTRACT

Climbing is a popular participation sport and Olympic discipline in its own right. In 2021 it was included in the Olympics games featuring the three competition disciplines, Lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. These demands place substantial load on the upper limb, particularly the fingers, wrist, elbow, and shoulder and contribute to a broad spectrum of acute and chronic injuries in both elite and recreational climbers. Although, climbing injury patterns are well documented and surgical procedures are frequently reported, rehabilitation and return to sport parameters after injury remains limited. It requires structured clinical assessment, progressive tissue loading, development of physical capacities, appropriate periodisation and graded sports specific programming. The aim of this study was to develop an International consensus based framework across the rehabilitation, physical preparation and a return to climbing pathway for adult climbers. The framework covers acute injury management, chronic injury management, intermediate and advance phases, outcome measures, progression rules for the safe return to performance in an applied setting.

View PDF: Ehiogu. 149. Return following injury .pdf

Related Topics

In this issue

Letter from the Editor and UKSCA Chair: Post UKSCA 2026 Conference

Reflections on the UKSCA 2026 Annual Conference, celebrating member achievements, professional development and the future direction of the association and PSCJ.

Athlete Monitoring Practices in Low-Resource Sporting Environments: Evidence from Ghanaian Football and School Sports

Athlete monitoring in low-resource sporting environments, exploring practical, sustainable methods used in Ghanaian football and school sports.

Impact of Different Sprint Pedal Resistances Within Heat-Based Sprint Interval Training on Repeated Sprint Ability, Time Trial Exercise and Recovery

Examining how different sprint pedal resistances during heat-based sprint interval training affect repeated sprint ability, cycling performance, muscle oxygen use and recovery.

Does Relative Age and Biological Maturation Affect Performance Profiling Outcomes in Youth Football?

Explores how relative age and biological maturation influence performance profiling in youth football, highlighting implications for talent identification and player development.

Adapting Training Load Based on the Menstrual Cycle in Women’s Football: Player Perception, Preferences, Barriers and Experiences

Explores female footballers’ perceptions, preferences and barriers around menstrual cycle tracking, with practical recommendations for adapting training load and improving athlete buy-in.

Experiences of Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs) are Complex and Multifaceted, with Expectations and Perceptions Shaped by Individual Perspectives

Explores athlete, coach and support staff perspectives on Relative Energy Deficiency in sport (REDs), highlighting education, individualised care and the coach–athlete relationship.

The Run-Specific Knee Isometric-Push Assessment: A Measurement Reliability Study in Adolescent Athletes.

Examines the measurement reliability of the run-specific knee isometric-push assessment for profiling force-time performance and injury-related asymmetries in adolescent athletes.

Relationships between Pick-up Acceleration, Isometric and Jump Force-Time Variables in Youth Football Players

Examines relationships between pick-up acceleration, isometric strength and jump performance in youth football, highlighting early-phase force development as a key predictor of acceleration performance.

Maturity-aware reference profiling of strength in competitive UK youth male ice hockey: athlete reclassification using chronological-age and biological-age centiles.

Examines how biological maturation and body size influence strength classification in UK youth ice hockey players, highlighting maturation-sensitive centiles and allometric scaling.

Cueing the Landing: Effects on Landing Mechanics and Reliability in University Athletes

Examines how verbal cueing influences landing mechanics and measurement reliability, including landing height, position, depth and peak vertical ground reaction force.

Force Plate Assessment Before Arduous Military Training: Expert-Informed Recommendations for Test and Metric Selection

Presents expert-informed recommendations for force plate testing before arduous military training, identifying IMTP, countermovement jump and drop jump measures for neuromuscular profiling and physical-readiness assessment.

Technical Exercise Proficiency as a Programme Foundation for the Development of Judo Specific Muscular Strength: A Case Study in S&C Novice Club Judokas

Explore how technical exercise proficiency and power clean progression influence judo-specific muscular strength development in novice judokas.

Longitudinal monitoring of eccentric hamstring strength during fixture congestion in professional football: No changes in force despite increased match frequency

Examines eccentric hamstring strength during fixture congestion in professional football, showing stable force despite increased match frequency and supporting micro-dosed Nordic hamstring exercise.

School-Based Strength and Conditioning: A Delphi Study of Essential Components

Identifies expert consensus on essential components of school-based strength and conditioning, prioritising safety, coaching quality and developmentally appropriate training.

Reliability and Measurement Error of a Climbing-Specific Upper Extremity Testing Battery for Sports Rehabilitation and Performance Monitoring

Examines the reliability and measurement error of a climbing-specific upper-extremity testing battery for monitoring finger and shoulder strength and endurance during rehabilitation.

Return to climbing after musculoskeletal injury: A scoping review of rehabilitation content, outcome measures and return to sport criteria.

Reviews rehabilitation, outcome measures and return-to-climbing criteria following musculoskeletal injury, highlighting gaps in objective progression and return-to-performance guidance.

0345 300 8078info@uksca.org.uk